Fashion

Diesel Milan Fashion Week Spring 2023 Review


Thousands of guests attended Diesel’s Spring 2023 show in Milan. Indeed, 3,000 tickets were offered to the public. Creative Director Glenn Martens has quickly become one of the designers determined to break down the barriers of the traditional fashion industry, and he has done just that, once again, for the Spring 2023 collection. of the brand.

The show, which took place in a room filled with massive and vaguely sexual inflatable sculptures, opened with a procession of denim looks: bra tops, oversized vests, slashed jeans, ripped maxi dresses, hot pants distressed, loose trench coats and structured corsets. . Drawing inspiration from his work at Y/Project, where Martens dove deep into the material, the designer made it clear that Diesel is a vessel for playing with all types of denim, as well as a way to experience how these same concepts interact with the Diesel archives. “How can we reinvent denim or what can we do with denim [that’s] unexpected ? “, did he declare. O in April. “How can we twist it? How can I conceptualize how our denim is perceived?

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

(Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

From chunky denim bomber jackets to tiny denim tube tops, Spring 2023 at Milan Fashion Week was a character study done through jeans. There really was something for everyone, and many of the looks seemed to touch the expressive subcultures that are flourishing online and in the real world right now. We’ve seen the Y2K fan, the wayward girl (in an ombre denim dress that faded into oblivion) ​​and even the Gorpcore guy, in all his glory.

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

In the finish of each piece, we could see Martens truly indulge in the luxury of denim exploration. Grainy wood-like textures covered long and denim jackets; the cargo pants had a layer of muslin on top. The thick, distressed hems that looked like faux fur were divine. We’ve seen it all before, of course, but under Martens’ eye it seemed clearly directional and extremely well executed.

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Beyond denim, there were leather jackets, silky cargo pants, printed jersey maxi dresses, skirts and dresses with neon lace inserts. The collection felt more cheerful when Martens experimented with colors that evoked the hues of the sunset: almost neon orange sweaters paired with metallic pink skirts, for example; or flamboyant tangerine denim ensembles.

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Photo by Estrop/Getty Images

Since the Diesel show in Milan last season, we’ve seen the brand’s 1 DR bag worn by everyone from Kylie Jenner to Julia Fox (who was front row again this season). Spring 2023 didn’t look like it had a particular “It” item, but outerwear and its range were particularly strong.

Beyond inviting the public to his show, a true rarity in the world of post-Covid intimate presentations, Martens’ expression through denim telegraphs an upsetting message of democracy in fashion. He’s a designer who often draws inspiration from the subway, after all. “I think denim is a very democratic material,” he said. “You can wear it with a high heel, you can go to a cocktail party, you can go rave.”

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